Mercedes Benz rear brake replacement. Applies to 203 chassis C-Class cars

Published: 02nd March 2009
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This article will give an overview how to change rear brakes on a typical 203 chassis style car. Parts may differ depending on car especially on cars with sports package. There a few different parts for the C-class so it is always a good idea to make sure you are getting the right parts by checking your VIN number.

Make sure you have all the tool and parts you need:

18 mm socket and ratchet

Deep 17mm socket for removing wheel bolts

T30 torx bit

Torque wrench

Large flat head screwdriver

Wire brush one small and one large

Plastic or lead hammer


Small punch

Brake rotors and/or pads

Brake pad sensors

Anti squeak spray

Brake grease



Cleaning solvent

1: Secure the car with jack stands and remove the front wheels. This
job can get dirty so it is recommended to wear gloves and some work

2: Now is a good time to clean the new rotors and spray the pads with
anti-squeak. We have had best luck by using Castle anti-squeak and
spraying one thick layer and letting it soak. Grease can also be
applied now to all contacting parts. Try to use only Mercedes-Benz
parts or OEM parts. Aftermarket parts have are known to squeak and make
noise. Important:
If your pads are very low or you are doing front and back, check the
level of your brake fluid! If you have had to add fluid in the past you
will have to suck some out now. Squeezing in the caliper pistons will push out brake fluid from the reservoir if the reservoir is full!

Check the level make sure it is not too full, or fluid will come out and you will have a mess!!

Use only Mercedes-Benz approved fluid.

Cleaning oil off new rotors

Spraying anti-squeak

Grease applied to contact points.

Mercedes-Benz brake grease part number 001 989 47 51

Castle anti-squeak

3: Loosen the rotor screw with a T30 Torx bit.

4: Knock out the brake pad clip retaining pin with a punch or other similar tool. Remove the pin it may be a little stuck. Remove the clip as well and put it to the side.

Knocking out pin.

Removing pin and clip

5: Now it is time to compress the calipers. You can use two large screwdrivers in a crossing pattern to do this. Make sure the piston is all the way in so the new pads will fit. The old brake pads can be removed now. If it has a sensor note the position of it.

Compressing piston.

Remove brake pads.

6: Clean the caliper where it contacts the brake pads with a small wire brush. Solvent can be used for easier cleaning. This will be as far as you go if you are only changing pads. You can jump to step 11 to finish replacing pads.

Cleaning dust and dirt from caliper with small wire brush.

7: Time to remove the caliper. The bolts are a little awkward to get to. You can secure the caliper by placing it on the axle behind the backing plate.

Loosening caliper bolts.

8: Time to remove the rotor: The hub should also be cleaned with a wire brush at this time too. This can help prevent brake noise.

Removing rotor

Rotor ready for removal

Cleaning hub

9: Time to install new rotor and tighten rotor torx screw.

10: Install the 2 large caliper retaining bolts and tighten them to 115 Nm (85 Ft. lbs)

11: Install new brake pads. If the caliper piston as been completely compressed the pads should easily slide in. If there is a brake pad sensor replace it now.

New pads installed.

12: Install brake pad clip and pin. The pin will have to be hammered in the last inch or so.

Installing clip.

Installing pin. Make sure it is secure and all the way in.

13: Now it will have to be repeated for the other side.

14: Install wheels and torque to 95 Ft. lbs.

15: Time to brake in the car. Before starting the car push the brake
pedal all the way down a couple of times. It is recommended you brake
in the car in a place with no other traffic. Bring the car up to about
35mph and hit brakes and come to a complete stop. Repeat this 3 or 4
more times. This will seat the brakes correctly. Now you have new
brakes that wont make any noise for a while!

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